Eswatini (Swaziland) — Mbabane, a Local Tribe & a Primary School Visit That Changed Us | Two for the Row'd
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🇸🇿 Eswatini Mbabane · Local Tribe · Primary School · Savanna Part of South Africa Trip · 2018

Eswatini —
the kingdom that got deep under our skin

We visited Eswatini — formerly known as Swaziland — in 2018 as part of a wider South Africa trip, and it turned out to be one of the most genuinely moving parts of the entire journey. A night in the capital Mbabane, time spent with a local tribe learning about their way of life and traditions, and a visit to a local primary school that left us with memories we will carry for the rest of our lives. Eswatini is small, landlocked and often overlooked — but it has a warmth, a cultural richness and a beauty that is completely its own. One of those places that reminds you exactly why travel matters.

🚗 From South Africa 🏙️ Mbabane 🥁 Local Tribe Visit 🏫 Primary School 🌄 Savanna Landscapes

What Eswatini gave us:

Mbabane capital 🏙️ Swazi tribal culture 🥁 Primary school visit 🏫 Stunning savanna landscapes 🌄 Traditional way of life The warmest people 🇸🇿
Eswatini travel guideSwaziland travelMbabane EswatiniSwazi culture tribe visitsouthern Africa road tripEswatini from South Africaauthentic Africa travel
🇸🇿 The Story

A small kingdom with a very big heart

The visit that moved us most on our entire southern Africa journey.

"We expected Eswatini to be a stopover. It became one of the most profound travel experiences we have ever had. The children at that school — the joy, the energy, the warmth — it puts everything into perspective. We think about that visit all the time."

We crossed into Eswatini from South Africa in 2018 with one night planned in Mbabane and a loose itinerary for the following day. What unfolded over those two days ended up being among the most memorable of our entire African adventure.

Mbabane is a small capital city set in the beautiful Mdimba Mountains — unhurried, friendly and genuinely charming in a way that big cities rarely are. The markets, the local restaurants, the mountain setting and the warmth of the people we met made an immediate impression.

The visit to the local tribe was extraordinary. Learning about traditional Swazi life — the customs, the crafts, the music, the structure of the community — in a setting that felt completely genuine and unhurried was a rare privilege. These are not performances for tourists. This is real life, shared generously with visitors who take the time to come and learn.

But nothing prepared us for the primary school visit. The children were incredible. The joy, the curiosity, the energy, the warmth they showed to two Irish people turning up in their school — it was one of those moments in travel that strips everything back and reminds you what actually matters. We left with full hearts and a perspective on our own lives that we have never quite lost.

Eswatini is small. It is landlocked. It is not on most travel bucket lists. It absolutely should be.

The highlights — what made Eswatini so special

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The Primary School Visit

The single most moving experience of our entire southern Africa trip. The children, the welcome, the joy — it is the kind of travel moment that stays with you for life and changes how you see the world.

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Time with a Local Tribe

A genuinely authentic experience — learning about traditional Swazi life, customs, crafts and culture from the people who live it. Not a performance but a real, generous sharing of a way of life.

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Mbabane

A small, charming capital in the mountains — relaxed, friendly and full of character. The markets are great, the food is good and the setting in the Mdimba Mountains is genuinely beautiful.

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The Landscapes

Eswatini's scenery moves from green highland mountains to open savanna lowlands and is beautiful throughout. The views driving through the country are stunning at every turn.

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The People

The Swazi people are among the warmest and most welcoming we have encountered anywhere in Africa. The hospitality, the openness and the genuine friendliness made every interaction a pleasure.

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Hidden Gem Status

Most travellers in southern Africa drive straight past. Eswatini rewards those who stop — with culture, scenery and human connection you simply will not find anywhere else on the route.

📸 Eswatini in Pictures

Mountains, savanna and the heart of the kingdom

From the misty highlands and open lowlands to the reservoir, the traditional homestead and the sign that welcomed us — Eswatini through our lens.

Eswatini highland mountain landscape — Two for the Row'd Eswatini green valley landscape — Two for the Row'd Eswatini reservoir and dam — Two for the Row'd Eswatini traditional homestead water feature — Two for the Row'd
Eswatini sunset with palm trees — Two for the Row'd Eswatini colonial building Mbabane — Two for the Row'd Eswatini open savanna plains — Two for the Row'd Thank you for visiting Swaziland sign — Two for the Row'd
🎬 Our Eswatini Shorts

Watch our Eswatini clips

The landscapes, the culture and the people of this remarkable little kingdom.

Book a southern Africa tour through TourRadar

Want to explore Eswatini and the wider southern Africa region with expert guides and everything taken care of? TourRadar has brilliant tours covering this extraordinary part of the world.

Southern Africa is one of the great travel regions on earth — South Africa, Eswatini, Lesotho, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Zambia and beyond. A guided tour is a brilliant way to see more of it without the complexity of navigating border crossings, logistics and distances on your own.

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From cultural village visits and guided Mbabane tours to nature reserves and southern Africa day trips — browse Eswatini activities here:

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Common questions

Eswatini FAQ

Is Eswatini worth visiting?
Absolutely — Eswatini is one of Africa's most overlooked destinations. It is a small landlocked kingdom with stunning landscapes, rich Swazi culture, welcoming people and a depth of cultural experience that is very hard to find elsewhere. If you are travelling through southern Africa it is absolutely worth making time for.
What is Eswatini like?
Eswatini — formerly known as Swaziland — is a small landlocked kingdom in southern Africa, surrounded by South Africa and Mozambique. It has beautiful highland and lowland landscapes, a proud and distinct Swazi cultural identity, and some of the most genuine and warm people we have encountered anywhere in Africa.
How do you get to Eswatini?
The easiest way to visit Eswatini is as part of a southern Africa trip — it is very accessible by road from South Africa and makes a brilliant stop between Johannesburg and the Kruger National Park or the Mozambique coast. We visited as part of a South Africa trip in 2018 and it was one of the highlights of the entire journey.
What is Mbabane like?
Mbabane is the capital of Eswatini — a small, characterful city set in the Mdimba Mountains with a relaxed atmosphere, good local markets and a genuine sense of Swazi culture and identity. It has a warmth and character that makes it a very pleasant base for exploring the kingdom.
What cultural experiences can you have in Eswatini?
Eswatini offers some of the most authentic cultural experiences in southern Africa — visits to traditional Swazi villages and homesteads, traditional crafts, music and dance, and the opportunity to spend time with local communities in a way that is respectful and genuinely enriching. We spent time with a local tribe and visited a primary school — both were among the most moving experiences of our time in Africa.

What to pack for Eswatini

Eswatini packing essentials — what we'd bring

Eswatini is warm and sunny — lightweight clothing, strong sun protection and insect repellent are the essentials. If you are visiting a local school or community, bringing something small for the children — pencils, notebooks or small treats — is always warmly received.

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eSIM card

Handy for navigation across Eswatini and South Africa — keeps you connected on a multi-country road trip without expensive roaming charges.

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Travel adaptor

Eswatini uses Type M plugs — the same as South Africa. A universal adaptor is essential for keeping all your devices charged throughout the trip.

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Portable power bank

Eswatini's landscapes and cultural encounters are endlessly photogenic — keep a power bank charged so your phone never dies at the wrong moment.

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Small day backpack

Ideal for village visits — carry water, sun cream, layers for highland evenings and anything else you need without weighing yourself down.

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Water bottle

Stay hydrated in the African heat — particularly on village visits and outdoor days where you'll be active in the sun for long periods.

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Personal first aid kit

Essential for a southern Africa trip — for minor scrapes, blisters and anything that comes up on a long multi-country road trip far from home.

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Insect repellent

Essential for Eswatini — malaria is present in the lowveld areas so a good repellent is non-negotiable. Check with your doctor about anti-malarial precautions before travelling.

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Sunscreen

The African sun is fierce — a high SPF is essential for any outdoor day in Eswatini. Reapply frequently on highland walks and open savanna days.

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Wide brim hat

Absolutely essential in the African sun — keeps you comfortable and protected on village visits, outdoor walks and any time you are spending significant hours outdoors.

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Linen trousers

Lightweight and respectful for village and community visits — covering up is appreciated in traditional Swazi settings and linen keeps you cool while showing respect.

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Travel toiletries

Compact toiletries make a long southern Africa road trip much easier to manage across multiple stops and accommodation changes.

Men's →Women's →

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Planning your own Eswatini visit?

Don't drive past. Stop, stay a night, spend time with the people and the culture of this extraordinary little kingdom. Eswatini will give you something that no big-ticket destination ever quite manages — genuine human connection and a perspective on the world you won't find anywhere else.

Affiliate disclosure: if you book through our links we may earn a small commission at no cost to you.