Eswatini Travel Guide — Mbabane, Things to Do & Country Facts | Two for the Row'd
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🇸🇿 Kingdom of Eswatini · our 2018 visit
🇸🇿 Eswatini Mbabane · Culture · Community · Landscapes Part of South Africa Trip · 2018

Eswatini Travel Guide —
Mbabane, things to do & country facts

Eswatini is a small kingdom with dramatic highlands, open lowlands and a strong Swazi cultural identity. We visited in 2018 as part of a wider southern Africa journey, spending time around Mbabane and local communities. This guide combines our experience with practical information on the country, money, history and getting around.

🚗 From South Africa → 🏙️ Mbabane → 🥁 Cultural Visit → 🏫 Primary School → 🌄 Savanna Landscapes

What Eswatini gave us:

Mbabane capital 🏙️ Swazi culture & traditions 🥁 Primary school visit 🏫 Stunning savanna landscapes 🌄 Living traditions The warmest people 🇸🇿
Eswatini travel guideSwaziland travelMbabane EswatiniSwazi culturesouthern Africa road tripEswatini from South Africasouthern Africa travel
🌍 Eswatini at a Glance

A tiny kingdom with a very distinct identity

Eswatini is a landlocked country in southern Africa, bordered by South Africa on most sides and Mozambique to the northeast. At roughly 17,364 km², it is one of Africa’s smallest countries, yet its scenery changes dramatically from the cooler mountainous Highveld to the warmer, drier Lowveld.

👥Population≈1.22 million
🏙️Administrative capitalMbabane
👑Royal & legislative capitalLobamba
💰CurrencyLilangeni (SZL)
💬LanguagessiSwati & English
📐Area17,364 km²
🗓️Independence6 September 1968
🚗Drive onThe left

Population figure shown is the official 2025 projection of 1,217,041. The lilangeni is fixed at parity with the South African rand, which is also legal tender in Eswatini.

📜 A Little History

From Swaziland to the Kingdom of Eswatini

The modern kingdom has deep roots in Swazi history and the monarchy remains central to the country’s national identity. Eswatini became independent from Britain on 6 September 1968 under King Sobhuza II.

Today the country operates under a system in which the monarchy, traditional structures and parliament all play roles in national government. The 2005 Constitution is the supreme law, while the Tinkhundla system forms the basis of the country’s political and administrative structure.

In April 2018, King Mswati III announced that the country would officially be known as the Kingdom of Eswatini rather than Swaziland. The name means, broadly, “land of the Swazis” and marked a return to the country’s indigenous name. We happened to visit in 2018, so it was a particularly interesting time to be there — you will still see the old Swaziland name on older signs, maps and souvenirs.

Traditional ceremonies, music, dance, crafts and community structures remain highly visible parts of life in Eswatini. For visitors, understanding that these traditions are part of a living contemporary society — rather than simply tourist attractions — makes travelling here far more rewarding.

🧭 Before You Go

Practical Eswatini travel information

💰 MoneyThe local currency is the lilangeni (plural: emalangeni), code SZL. It is pegged 1:1 to the South African rand, and South African rand is also legal tender in Eswatini. That makes a combined South Africa–Eswatini trip particularly straightforward for cash.
💬 LanguagesiSwati and English are the official languages. English is widely useful for travellers, but learning even a greeting or two in siSwati is a lovely way to connect with people.
🚗 Getting aroundDriving is on the left, as in South Africa. Eswatini fits naturally into an overland southern Africa itinerary, but remember that crossing the border means entering another sovereign country: check passport, visa and vehicle requirements before travelling.
🌦️ ClimateDo not assume the whole country has one climate. The mountainous Highveld is cooler and wetter, while the Lowveld is warmer and drier. Layers are useful, particularly around Mbabane and at altitude.
🔌 ElectricitySouth African-style plugs are commonly used, so the same adaptor can generally serve both parts of a combined trip. Check your accommodation and current standards before departure.
🤝 CultureEswatini has strong living cultural traditions. Dress and behave respectfully at community, royal and cultural sites, ask before photographing people, and follow the guidance of local hosts.

Travel rules can change. Check current entry, health and border requirements with official sources before departure.

🇸🇿 The Story

A small kingdom with a very big heart

The visit that moved us most on our entire southern Africa journey.

"We expected Eswatini to be a stopover. It became one of the most profound travel experiences we have ever had. The children at that school — the joy, the energy, the warmth — it puts everything into perspective. We think about that visit all the time."

We crossed into Eswatini from South Africa in 2018 with one night planned in Mbabane and a loose itinerary for the following day. What unfolded over those two days ended up being among the most memorable of our entire African adventure.

Mbabane is a small capital city set in the beautiful Mdimba Mountains — unhurried, friendly and genuinely charming in a way that big cities rarely are. The markets, the local restaurants, the mountain setting and the warmth of the people we met made an immediate impression.

Our cultural visit was extraordinary. We were introduced to aspects of Swazi traditions, crafts, music and community life by local people who generously shared their knowledge with us. Looking back, what mattered most was not treating the experience as a performance or a photo opportunity, but listening, asking questions respectfully and appreciating that we were visitors being welcomed into someone else’s community.

But nothing prepared us for the primary school visit. The children were incredible. The joy, the curiosity, the energy, the warmth they showed to two Irish people turning up in their school — it was one of those moments in travel that strips everything back and reminds you what actually matters. We left with full hearts and a perspective on our own lives that we have never quite lost.

Eswatini is small. It is landlocked. It is not on most travel bucket lists. It absolutely should be.

The highlights — what made Eswatini so special

🏫
The Primary School Visit

The single most moving experience of our entire southern Africa trip. The children, the welcome, the joy — it is the kind of travel moment that stays with you for life and changes how you see the world.

🥁
Our Cultural Visit

A chance to learn about Swazi traditions, crafts, music and community life directly from local hosts. It was memorable because of the conversations and welcome, not because it tried to turn everyday life into a tourist spectacle.

🏙️
Mbabane

A small, charming capital in the mountains — relaxed, friendly and full of character. The markets are great, the food is good and the setting in the Mdimba Mountains is genuinely beautiful.

🌄
The Landscapes

Eswatini's scenery moves from green highland mountains to open savanna lowlands and is beautiful throughout. The views driving through the country are stunning at every turn.

🤝
The People

The Swazi people are among the warmest and most welcoming we have encountered anywhere in Africa. The hospitality, the openness and the genuine friendliness made every interaction a pleasure.

🇸🇿
Hidden Gem Status

Most travellers in southern Africa drive straight past. Eswatini rewards those who stop — with culture, scenery and human connection you simply will not find anywhere else on the route.

🚗 Explore Mbabane & Manzini from Home

Take a virtual drive through Eswatini

Want to see more of Eswatini beyond our own visit? Drive From Home lets you virtually explore the Mbabane and Manzini area — a great way to get a feel for the streets, scenery and everyday surroundings of this fascinating little kingdom before you travel.

📸 Eswatini in Pictures

Mountains, savanna and the heart of the kingdom

From the misty highlands and open lowlands to the reservoir, the traditional homestead and the sign that welcomed us — Eswatini through our lens.

Eswatini highland mountain landscape — Two for the Row'd Eswatini green valley landscape — Two for the Row'd Eswatini reservoir and dam — Two for the Row'd Eswatini traditional homestead water feature — Two for the Row'd
Eswatini sunset with palm trees — Two for the Row'd Eswatini colonial building Mbabane — Two for the Row'd Eswatini open savanna plains — Two for the Row'd Thank you for visiting Swaziland sign — Two for the Row'd
🎬 Our Eswatini Shorts

Watch our Eswatini clips

The landscapes, the culture and the people of this remarkable little kingdom.

Book a southern Africa tour through TourRadar

If Eswatini is part of a wider southern Africa trip, you may also be comparing organised South Africa itineraries. This is a current TourRadar option we’ve selected as a useful starting point — it is not the exact 2018 itinerary we travelled.

Our own journey combined South Africa and Eswatini, but itineraries vary enormously. Always check the individual tour route carefully if Eswatini is a must-see for you.

Disclosure: This is an affiliate link. If you book through it we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Book Eswatini experiences with GetYourGuide

From cultural village visits and guided Mbabane tours to nature reserves and southern Africa day trips — browse Eswatini activities here:

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Common questions

Eswatini FAQ

Is Eswatini worth visiting?
Absolutely — Eswatini is one of Africa's most overlooked destinations. It is a small landlocked kingdom with stunning landscapes, rich Swazi culture, welcoming people and a depth of cultural experience that is very hard to find elsewhere. If you are travelling through southern Africa it is absolutely worth making time for.
What is Eswatini like?
Eswatini — formerly known as Swaziland — is a small landlocked kingdom in southern Africa, surrounded by South Africa and Mozambique. It has beautiful highland and lowland landscapes, a proud and distinct Swazi cultural identity, and some of the most genuine and warm people we have encountered anywhere in Africa.
How do you get to Eswatini?
The easiest way to visit Eswatini is as part of a southern Africa trip — it is very accessible by road from South Africa and makes a brilliant stop between Johannesburg and the Kruger National Park or the Mozambique coast. We visited as part of a South Africa trip in 2018 and it was one of the highlights of the entire journey.
What is Mbabane like?
Mbabane is the capital of Eswatini — a small, characterful city set in the Mdimba Mountains with a relaxed atmosphere, good local markets and a genuine sense of Swazi culture and identity. It has a warmth and character that makes it a very pleasant base for exploring the kingdom.
What cultural experiences can you have in Eswatini?
Eswatini offers some of the most authentic cultural experiences in southern Africa — visits to traditional Swazi villages and homesteads, traditional crafts, music and dance, and the opportunity to spend time with local communities in a way that is respectful and genuinely enriching. We spent time with a local tribe and visited a primary school — both were among the most moving experiences of our time in Africa.

What to pack for Eswatini

Eswatini packing essentials — what we'd bring

Eswatini is warm and sunny — lightweight clothing, strong sun protection and insect repellent are the essentials. If your itinerary includes a school or community visit, ask the organiser in advance whether anything is genuinely needed rather than arriving with unsolicited gifts.

📶
eSIM card

Handy for navigation across Eswatini and South Africa — keeps you connected on a multi-country road trip without expensive roaming charges.

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🔌
Travel adaptor

Eswatini uses Type M plugs — the same as South Africa. A universal adaptor is essential for keeping all your devices charged throughout the trip.

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🔋
Portable power bank

Eswatini's landscapes and cultural encounters are endlessly photogenic — keep a power bank charged so your phone never dies at the wrong moment.

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🎒
Small day backpack

Ideal for village visits — carry water, sun cream, layers for highland evenings and anything else you need without weighing yourself down.

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💧
Water bottle

Stay hydrated in the African heat — particularly on village visits and outdoor days where you'll be active in the sun for long periods.

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🩹
Personal first aid kit

Essential for a southern Africa trip — for minor scrapes, blisters and anything that comes up on a long multi-country road trip far from home.

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🦟
Insect repellent

Essential for Eswatini — malaria is present in the lowveld areas so a good repellent is non-negotiable. Check with your doctor about anti-malarial precautions before travelling.

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🧴
Sunscreen

The African sun is fierce — a high SPF is essential for any outdoor day in Eswatini. Reapply frequently on highland walks and open savanna days.

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👒
Wide brim hat

Absolutely essential in the African sun — keeps you comfortable and protected on village visits, outdoor walks and any time you are spending significant hours outdoors.

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👗
Linen trousers

Lightweight and respectful for village and community visits — covering up is appreciated in traditional Swazi settings and linen keeps you cool while showing respect.

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🧴
Travel toiletries

Compact toiletries make a long southern Africa road trip much easier to manage across multiple stops and accommodation changes.

Men's →Women's →

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Planning your own Eswatini visit?

Don't drive past. Stop, stay a night, spend time with the people and the culture of this extraordinary little kingdom. Eswatini will give you something that no big-ticket destination ever quite manages — genuine human connection and a perspective on the world you won't find anywhere else.

Affiliate disclosure: if you book through our links we may earn a small commission at no cost to you.