Moscow is vast, dramatic and utterly compelling. Standing in Red Square with St Basil's Cathedral on one side and the Kremlin walls on the other is one of those travel moments where you genuinely have to stop and take in the fact that you are actually there. The Kremlin grounds, the Bolshoi Theatre, the extraordinary Metro stations, Novodevichy Convent, the day trip to Sergiev Posad, the energy of one of the world's great megacities — Moscow grabbed us by the collar and refused to let go.
We arrived in Moscow in the evening after a spectacular four-hour journey on the Sapsan high-speed train from St Petersburg. After our time in St Petersburg, the Sapsan carried us on to the second major city of our Russian journey. Arriving in Moscow felt like the next chapter of the trip — a completely different city, with a scale and energy all of its own.
We checked into the Park Inn by Radisson before beginning our Moscow sightseeing. The contrast with St Petersburg was immediate: less imperial elegance, more sheer scale, drama and big-city energy.
Red Square is as iconic in person as in any photograph — and more so. The scale of the space, the impossibility of St Basil's Cathedral with its coloured onion domes, the Kremlin walls running along one side, the historical weight of the place — it's genuinely extraordinary. You stand in Red Square and you feel like you're standing in one of the great centers of human history.
St Basil's itself is even more remarkable up close. The different-coloured domes, the intricate architecture, the sheer audacity of its design — it's unlike anything else in the world. Seeing it up close was every bit as memorable as we had hoped.
The Kremlin is the heart of Moscow and of Russia itself — the seat of power since the 15th century. Walking the Kremlin grounds, seeing the massive walls, the towers, the historic buildings, visiting one of its cathedrals — you get a visceral sense of Russian history and political power.
The scale is immense. The walls stretch on and on. The sense of history and authority is overwhelming. This isn't just a tourist site — this is where Russia is governed from. It's genuinely awe-inspiring.
Theatre Square is one of Moscow's most beautiful public spaces, dominated by the extraordinary Bolshoi Theatre — one of the world's most famous opera houses. Whether or not you manage to see a performance inside, the building itself is worth standing and admiring.
The square and its surrounding architecture added another completely different side to Moscow after the monumental history of Red Square and the Kremlin.
Our Moscow sightseeing also took us to Sparrow Hills, where the view opens out across the enormous city and gives a real sense of Moscow's scale.
Moscow State University's monumental Stalinist-era building dominates this part of the skyline and is another striking contrast with the older Moscow we had been exploring.
An optional full-day excursion to Sergiev Posad — a historic and deeply spiritual monastery town about 70km north of Moscow. The Trinity Lavra of St Sergius is the most important Russian monastery and the spiritual heart of the Russian Orthodox Church. Its churches, domes and monastery complex offered a very different experience from central Moscow.
The monastery was extraordinarily beautiful, and the visit gave us another glimpse of Russia beyond the two great cities on our itinerary.
It also meant getting outside Moscow for part of the day and seeing another side of the country.
Our original tour itinerary also offered an optional Old Russian Circus experience in the evening.
One of Moscow's most quietly magnificent places — the Novodevichy Convent is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the burial place of many famous Russians. The walled convent, with its extraordinary churches, peaceful grounds and fascinating history stretching back to the 16th century, is a wonderful contrast to the grandeur of Red Square and the Kremlin.
Novodevichy feels removed from the chaos of central Moscow — a sanctuary of calm and history. The architecture of the churches is beautiful, and the sense of place and spirituality is profound. It's one of the great underseen places in Moscow.
One of our Moscow evenings included a Russian dinner at Restaurant Russian Kitsch — a lively end to a day of sightseeing and another chance to enjoy the warm atmosphere we remember from the trip.
It is one of the memories that sits alongside the famous landmarks when we think back on Moscow: not just the buildings and history, but the atmosphere of being there.
We stayed at the Park Inn by Radisson during the Moscow section of our organised tour. As with the rest of this page, this reflects our 2018 trip rather than a current hotel recommendation.
Arrival by Sapsan from St Petersburg. Hotel check-in at Hotel Park Inn by Radisson. Evening exploration of the city — first impressions of Moscow's scale and energy.
Red Square with St Basil's Cathedral — one of the most iconic sights in the world. Kremlin grounds visit and one of the Kremlin's cathedrals. Theatre Square and the Bolshoi Theatre. Sparrow Hills and Moscow University for the panoramic views over the city.
Optional full-day excursion to Sergiev Posad — the Trinity Lavra of St Sergius monastery, one of the most important Russian Orthodox sites. The journey to and from Moscow is itself part of the experience, showing the Russian countryside. Optional Old Russian Circus experience in the evening.
Four-hour excursion to the magnificent Novodevichy Convent — one of Moscow's most beautiful sites and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Russian dinner at Restaurant Russian Kitsch in the evening — an evening of food, warmth and celebration before departure the following morning.
Early morning departure from Moscow, returning to Dublin.
Want another look around Moscow? Our friends at Drive From Home let you explore the city virtually — perfect for revisiting places you've been or getting a feel for somewhere before you travel.
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Our visit was in 2018, and the world has changed enormously since then. But our memories of Moscow are still of standing in Red Square slightly stunned that we were actually there, of the scale of the Kremlin, the golden domes, the Russian atmosphere and the people we met along the way. It remains a remarkable chapter of our travels.