Kilkenny —
the city we keep going back to
Kilkenny isn't a once-off for us — it's somewhere we visit regularly. We've wandered the Medieval Mile, climbed the round tower at St Canice's, explored Rothe House, and made it to the Christmas markets more than once (the gluten-free crêpes are genuinely worth the trip alone). Beyond the city, we've found our way to a waterfall garden outside Thomastown, a family-run castle on the Carlow border, and a farmers market with real character. Good food, good nightlife, good heritage — Kilkenny ticks all three.
Kilkenny isn't a county we visited once and ticked off — it's one we go back to regularly. The medieval city itself is a big part of that: narrow laneways, Kilkenny Castle sitting over the river, and a nightlife scene that genuinely holds its own against much bigger Irish cities.
We've been to Kilkenny's Christmas markets more than once, and if you're gluten-free like Nicola, the crêpes there deserve a special mention — some of the best we've had anywhere. Beyond the city, we've found our way out to Kilfane Glen and its waterfall near Thomastown, and to Shankill Castle, a family-run house right on the Kilkenny-Carlow border. We've also called into Mountain View in Ballyhale, which runs a proper weekend farmers market worth timing a visit around.
🏰 Kilkenny Castle
Sitting right over the River Nore, Kilkenny Castle is the city's anchor point and its most recognisable landmark. Formal gardens and parkland make it an easy stop whether you've an hour or an afternoon.
🚶 Medieval Mile Museum
Housed in the former St Mary's Church, the Medieval Mile Museum is a good anchor for the self-guided trail through Kilkenny's medieval past that runs between the castle and the cathedral.
⛪ St Canice's Cathedral & Round Tower
Kilkenny's cathedral comes with its own round tower, which you can climb for views out over the city and beyond. One of the more active things to do in the city centre.
🏛️ Rothe House & Garden
A beautifully preserved 16th-century merchant's house with restored gardens behind it — a proper look at how well-off Kilkenny families actually lived, not just a facade.
🎄 The Christmas markets
We've made it to Kilkenny's Christmas markets more than once, and they're a lovely way to see the medieval streets dressed up for the season. If you're gluten-free, seek out the crêpes — genuinely some of the best GF options we've come across at any Irish market.
Tours and experiences in Kilkenny
Want the stories behind the Medieval Mile? Browse guided walks, historical experiences and other bookable things to do in Kilkenny.
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💦 Kilfane Glen & Waterfall
A restored 1790s romantic garden near Thomastown, with woodland paths, a grotto and a genuine waterfall tucked into the glen. Quieter and more atmospheric than most of Kilkenny's better-known attractions.
Watch our Kilfane video ↓🏯 Shankill Castle
A family-run castle and gardens near Paulstown, right on the Kilkenny-Carlow border. Guided tours are led personally by a member of the family who lives there, which gives it a completely different feel to a standard heritage-site visit.
Watch our Shankill Castle video ↓⛪ Jerpoint Abbey
An outstanding 12th-century Cistercian abbey ruin near Thomastown, easily paired with Kilfane Glen for one countryside day out from the city.
🛒 Mountain View, Ballyhale
A family-run venue in Ballyhale that also hosts a proper farmers market at weekends — worth timing your visit around if you're in the area on a Saturday or Sunday.
Kilfane Glen & Waterfall
A look inside this restored 1790s garden and its hidden waterfall near Thomastown.
Shankill Castle
Our visit to this family-run castle and gardens on the Kilkenny-Carlow border.
We put together our own local guide to Kilkenny, covering must-see attractions, our favourite places to eat, coffee stops, pubs worth visiting, shopping, hidden gems and easy day trips from the city — plus our own top picks for coffee, lunch, dinner, a pub, a photo spot and a walk.
💡 Our local tip
Visit Kilkenny Castle and the Medieval Mile in the morning, then cross the river for lunch and a stroll along the Butterslip. Stay for dinner and live music — that's when Kilkenny really comes alive.
🪨 Did you know?
Brownshill Dolmen — just outside our own home county of Carlow, but well worth a visit from Kilkenny — has one of the heaviest capstones in Europe, estimated at around 100 tonnes.
Make Kilkenny part of a south-east road trip
Kilkenny is easy to combine with our own home county of Carlow, or with Wexford and Laois for a wider south-east and midlands road trip. If you're travelling without your own car, organised Ireland tours can take some of the logistics out of the trip.
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Low Lane is our pick for coffee in Kilkenny — independent roasters serving genuinely good coffee and pastries.
Arán Artisan Bakery & Bistro is our go-to for lunch — fresh, local and reliably good.
Petronella is our dinner pick when we want a proper sit-down meal in the city.
Kyteler's Inn is our choice — history, atmosphere and a great pint, all in one of the city's oldest pubs.
Kilkenny Castle from the Parade bridge is our recommended photo spot — the classic view for good reason.
The Canal Walk is relaxing, scenic and easy — a good way to stretch your legs between stops.
Keep exploring Ireland with us
Kilkenny is one of the Irish counties we keep coming back to. Head back to the Ireland hub, explore our home county of Carlow, or dive into the places most visitors drive straight past.