From El Jem to the Sahara —
our Southern Tunisia adventure
The second part of our 2009 Tunisia trip took us on a completely different journey — leaving the coast behind for an organised overnight excursion into Southern Tunisia. We visited the Roman amphitheatre at El Jem, passed through Douz, stopped at traditional troglodyte dwellings, and spent an unforgettable night in the Sahara with camel rides at sunset and sunrise. This is the part of our Tunisia holiday that stayed with us most vividly.
⚠️ Our trip was in 2009 and things have changed. Read the current safety advice before you plan yours.
El Jem, Douz, troglodyte homes and the desert
Journey south into a different world
El Jem — the Roman amphitheatre
El Jem was our first major stop heading south, and the scale of its Roman amphitheatre took us by surprise. Standing in that space, looking up at a structure that has stood for around 1,800 years, marked a real shift from the Mediterranean coast we'd left behind. It was the perfect way to begin the southern part of the trip.
The road south and changing landscapes
As the journey continued, the scenery shifted. The landscape became progressively drier and more dramatic — rocky southern terrain, 4x4 roads, and a real sense of moving into a completely different Tunisia. The photographs we still have from this part of the trip capture that transition.
Troglodyte homes and tea
We stopped at traditional troglodyte dwellings, and we still remember sitting down for tea in someone's home. It's a small moment that has stayed with us — the coolness of the underground space after the heat of the afternoon, the hospitality. These are the memories that don't fade.
Douz
Douz stands out in our memories as another point on the southern journey. It's often described as a gateway to the Sahara, and that sense of crossing a threshold into the desert proper is something we remember clearly.
Camels at sunset
The camel ride as the sun went down over the Sahara dunes is one of the defining moments of our entire Tunisia trip. Riding deeper into the dunes, watching the light change, feeling the space open up around us — it's one of those travel experiences that simply doesn't compare to anything else. The colours as the sun approached the horizon are still vivid in our memory.
Overnight in the desert
We slept under Sahara skies, surrounded by stars in a way you simply don't experience in most places. The silence and the scale of the desert at night was genuinely profound.
Sunrise the next morning
The following morning brought a sunrise camel ride as the desert came back to life. If the sunset was beautiful, the sunrise was something else entirely — and it remains one of our favourite memories from the entire trip.
The highlights — what stayed with us
One of the most impressive Roman ruins in North Africa. Standing in that space is genuinely moving.
We visited and remember the tea we shared in someone's traditional home — genuine hospitality beyond any staged tourist experience.
A key stop on our journey south, marking the transition toward the desert proper.
The dramatic shift from coast to dry, rocky terrain. 4x4 travel through increasingly stunning desert landscape.
Riding into the Sahara as the sun goes down is one of the great travel experiences. The colours, the space, the moment — unforgettable.
Waking early and riding out as the Sahara comes back to life at sunrise. If anything, more beautiful than the sunset before.
Our own photos from the 2009 adventure
El Jem, the southern landscape, 4x4 travel, camel rides at sunset and sunrise, and our personal moments from the desert — Southern Tunisia through our lens.
Our trip was in 2009, and things have changed. The advice below comes from the Irish Department of Foreign Affairs travel advice for Tunisia (checked September 2026). Read the latest version before you book, because it can change quickly.
🛡️ The current rating
- The Irish DFA rates Tunisia High Degree of Caution (level 2 of 4).
- A state of emergency has been in place since 2015, and the risk of terrorism remains high. Take extra care in crowded places and transport hubs, and avoid demonstrations.
🚫 Areas to avoid in the south
- The DFA advises against all travel to the Chaambi Mountain National Park area, anywhere within 30 km of the Algerian and Libyan borders, the Ben Guerdane area, and the militarised zone in the far south of Tataouine Governorate (south of El Borma).
- It is worth asking your operator exactly where your route and camp are, and checking that none of it falls inside these areas.
🐪 Desert trips
- Entering certain desert areas near the Algerian border needs permission from the Tunisian authorities (the National Guard). The DFA recommends not travelling to that region.
- There is a risk of kidnap from terrorists operating in the south close to the Algerian border. If you plan a desert trip, use a reputable tour operator or a licensed local guide.
🚙 On the road
- Traffic can be fast and erratic, and the DFA advises avoiding unnecessary travel at night outside towns and cities.
- Dust and sand storms are frequent. Summers are hot, so drink plenty, and stick to boiled or bottled water.
🩺 Insurance and health
- Get comprehensive travel insurance that covers everything you plan to do, including camel riding, 4x4 travel and overnight desert stays. Check the exclusions.
- Ask your doctor about vaccinations at least 8 weeks before you travel.
🛂 Entry and getting help
- Irish citizens don’t need a visa. Your passport needs 6 months’ validity from the date you enter, and a passport card isn’t accepted.
- Emergency numbers: police 197 or 193, fire 198, ambulance 190. There is no Irish embassy in Tunisia. The Irish Embassy in Rabat (Morocco) helps, and there is an Honorary Consul in Tunis.
Full entry, money and safety notes are on our Tunisia guide. Source: Irish Department of Foreign Affairs, checked September 2026.
Plan your own Southern Tunisia and Sahara adventure
From Sahara Desert overnight trips and camel rides at sunset to El Jem tours and Douz explorations — browse Southern Tunisia activities here:
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Common questions
Southern Tunisia & Sahara FAQ
Plan your own Southern Tunisia and Sahara adventure
Book the overnight Sahara trip. Mount a camel at sunset. Watch the colours shift across the sky as the sun goes down. Sleep under more stars than you knew existed. Wake up before dawn and ride back out as the desert warms to life. Southern Tunisia will give you moments you will never forget.
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